Milan Fashion Week closed with an emotional tribute to Giorgio Armani following his recent passing. Before that finale, houses including Bottega Veneta, Tod’s and Ferragamo presented their latest visions. The standout moments ranged from transformative leather work to a homage to roaring-twenties glamour.
The most anticipated debut was Louise Trotter’s first collection as creative director of Bottega Veneta, succeeding Matthieu Blazy, now at Chanel. While she honored the house’s heritage, she also asserted her own creative language.
Reimagining Bottega Veneta’s Core Motifs
Celebrating Half a Century of Intrecciato
This year marks the 50th anniversary of Intrecciato, the woven-leather technique that defines Bottega Veneta. Trotter highlighted jackets with intrecciato lapels, shirts with woven epaulettes, and scarves with fringe details referencing the weaving pattern. The motif even appeared in silk fabrics as an illusion.
Knot as Wearable Signature
The knot motif, familiar from the brand’s handbags and shoes, was integrated into ready-to-wear with oversized coats featuring knot-shaped buttons. Craftsmanship remained central, with garments and accessories combining intrecciato, feathers and rich textures. Trotter balanced respect for her predecessor with a new interpretation of Bottega’s visual language.
Tod’s: Leather Reworked with Artisanal Vision
Tod’s leaned into craftsmanship, reinterpreting leather under the concept of artisanal intelligence. The collection emphasized outerwear including leather trenches, shearling and wool coats, and introduced patchwork and mixed textures inspired by artisanal treatments. Recycled leather scraps were transformed into garments, and the hand-stitching of the Gommino shoe was demonstrated live.
Ferragamo: A Jazz Age Revival
Ferragamo, led by creative director Maximilian Davis, paid tribute to the bold spirit of the 1920s.
Co-ed Glamour Meets Speakeasy Edge
Women’s dresses ranged from sheer chiffons to fitted knits. Men’s looks featured wide shoulders, long jackets and silk scarves. Fringe details and vinyl coats brought drama, while chartreuse accessories added vivid color. Among the guests were Christy Turlington and Naomi Watts.
Final Note: A Week of Transitions
Milan Fashion Week was a turning point. Armani’s passing set a somber tone, while Bottega Veneta, Tod’s and Ferragamo moved forward with renewed energy. Trotter’s debut combined tradition with innovation, Tod’s celebrated craftsmanship in fresh forms, and Ferragamo revived the Jazz Age with boldness. These shows confirmed the vitality of Italian fashion’s heritage and future.
