Billed as the “fashion week of the century,” this season marked a pivotal moment across luxury houses, defined by a wave of creative debuts. Maud Pupato, Fashion Purchasing Director for Women’s Luxury, Accessories, and Footwear at Printemps Paris, shared her expert insights with FashionNetwork.com on what made this season truly transformative.
Defining Debuts at Chanel and Dior
According to Pupato, two standout creative shifts came from Jonathan Anderson at Dior and Mathieu Blazy at Chanel.
“At Dior, we’re seeing the birth of a modern, poetic silhouette,” she said. “At Chanel, an elegant, passionate woman emerges. Both signal a new era.”
She also praised Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe, and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga for redefining their houses’ creative language.
Commercial Highlights
Among the season’s most promising products, Pupato cites Chanel’s two-tone shoes, Dior’s new quilted bag, and Chanel’s layered necklaces, alongside fitted coats and Balenciaga’s Paris 7 bag. She also admired Margiela’s reconstructed shirts and jackets and Bottega Veneta’s leather coats and collars, calling them “instant icons.”
The Return of Sophistication
This season, elegance takes center stage. Cuts are feminine, sculpted, and body-conscious. “There’s a renewed desire to celebrate the female form,” Pupato noted. Movement defines the season — flowing skirts, draped dresses, and higher heels reflect confidence and sensuality.
Designers like Alaïa, Chanel, Prada, Bottega Veneta, Celine, and Balenciaga embody this vision of a free, modern woman.
Subtle Femininity and Modern Textures
Lingerie-inspired pieces, lace, and transparency reappear with a more intimate and refined approach at Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, and Margiela. Layering and material blending — from deconstruction to accumulation — bring life and movement to monochrome collections.
Even minimalist palettes in black or white feel organic and dimensional, with standout examples from Margiela, Pauline Dujancourt, Hodakova, Rescha, and Miu Miu.
Standout Shows
For Pupato, three shows defined the season:
– Calvin Klein in New York, where Veronica Leoni redefined minimal elegance with perfect tailoring.
– Rick Owens in Paris, whose post-apocalyptic set and haunting music conveyed “a message of sovereign love.”
– Saint Laurent, offering futuristic sensuality with nylon dresses and sculptural jewelry that balanced glamour and innovation.
Artistic Expression Beyond the Catwalk
One of the most memorable presentations came from Gauchère, whose collaboration with Benjamin Millepied blended movement, fashion, and performance. Pupato called it “living poetry — a unique gesture of culture and material.”
Rising Designers and Independent Talent
Pupato highlighted Pauline Dujancourt for her striking knitwear-silk combinations and Bonnetje for deconstructed tailoring that unites technique and sustainability. She also praised Rescha, noting the brand’s evolution in both materials and message.
What Will Sell This Season
Tailored jackets and suits dominate the commercial outlook — structured yet feminine at Alaïa and Celine, lightweight at Victoria Beckham, and textured at Margiela. Leather remains key, with bold silhouettes and colors driving excitement.
Footwear and jewelry, Pupato added, “are no longer accessories — they define the silhouette.” Ballet sneakers and artistic heels complete this balance of comfort and creativity.
Color, Texture, and Mood
The summer palette feels optimistic. Earth tones — beige, brown, rust, khaki — mix with vivid accents: red at Chanel, yellow at Loewe, green at Dior, and pink at Balenciaga.
Textures are tactile and emotional, emphasizing softness and authenticity. “Every detail brings dimension and power,” Pupato said.
Accessories and the Spirit of Ornamentation
Statement earrings at Valentino, oversized necklaces at Chanel, and sculptural jewelry at Saint Laurent define the new femininity — bold yet delicate.
Scarves and bandanas return as expressive styling tools, layered as seen at Miu Miu or worn as versatile accessories by Loulou de Saison and Chloé Harrouche, whose presentation paired fashion with floral artistry by Aïdan Marcotte.
“Today’s woman,” Pupato concluded, “is free, adorned, and unapologetically creative.”
