The designer pays tribute to the feminine figures who inspire him—flâneuses drifting across Mediterranean scenes in crochet, chiffon tech, and airy elegance.
The fifth day of Milan Fashion Week continues to shine as one of the most intense and emotional. Four leading Italian maisons unveiled their Spring/Summer 2026 collections, each with its own stylistic voice. Ermanno Scervino presented a journey of Mediterranean light and translucency, Ferragamo revisited the roaring 1920s, Luisa Spagnoli centered on natural elegance, and Laura Biagiotti merged fashion with futurist art. The mosaic of languages underscores Milan’s vitality as a global fashion capital.
Ermanno Scervino: Mediterranean Translucence and Artisan Detail
Ermanno Scervino’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection is a hymn to light and movement. His imagined women—tourists in Anacapri, urban explorers—are draped in transparencies, embroideries, and textures evocative of Mediterranean majolica. Lace, crochet, and crystal detailing intertwine with light fabrics like chiffon, crafted via ancient techniques and transformed into reinvented blazers and structured pieces.
The color palette moves between saturated blues, warm sands, brilliant oranges, and sun-faded azures, delivering a poetic, vibrant Mediterranean vision. Accessories aren’t mere add-ons—they are protagonists: woven straw bags, raffia and leather converse with soft sandals, fringed loafers, or cork wedges that soften strict lines.
“I’ve tried to design garments that exalt femininity—with the humility to always do something new,” says the designer. “We must create fashion, not chase it.” This philosophy underlines his respect for craftsmanship: “Treat garments with a spirit of artisanship, but always differently. Let the dress be recognizable without showing the label.”
Thus, he elegantly elevates sporty beginnings into refined forms—such as a powder-blue suit that evokes denim but is in chiffon—a manifesto of balance between tradition and experimentation.
Ferragamo: A Roaring ’20s Return—Jazz, Freedom, Reinvention
Maximilian Davis’s Ferragamo draws upon the 1920s, reinterpreting the maison’s archival codes with modern sensibility. The inspiration stems from a 1925 archive and the “Africana” movement—animal prints, fringes, and exotic fabrics become status statements. Low-waist dresses, lace slips, and “speakeasy” ensembles evoke a new feminine emancipation, while the men’s side leans into zoot suits and expressive dandyism.
“It was a moment when women were forging a new femininity: a celebration of freedom, reclaiming themselves,” Davis reflects. The idea of liberty suffuses the collection—sliding silhouettes, patchwork dresses, and graphic details echoing the jazz era.
Accessories converse with heritage: the Hug Bag is renewed in patent, crocodile print, and woven leather; feather accents and jewel-like detailing adorn iconic models. Footwear becomes sculptural—S-shaped heels, pumps with Gancini chains, boudoir-style mules with pearls, and satin bow sandals deliver theatrical yet sophisticated flair.
Davis confirms his talent for weaving archives into contemporaneity, offering a bold, international Ferragamo that remains deeply rooted in its history.
Luisa Spagnoli: Naturalness as Authentic Luxury
In her SS26 collection, Luisa Spagnoli celebrates femininity through bodily freedom and nature’s strength. Linen, cotton, and silk caress the skin like a Mediterranean breeze, and garments are born at the waist and flow into airy silhouettes. The palette ranges from coral to lemon, pink to periwinkle, cacao to bronze, with graphic black-and-white contrasts.
The waistline returns as a focal point of modern femininity. “The waist is traced by ribbing that follows the body without confining it, and with raffia bustiers under coats and rope belts,” explains Nicoletta Spagnoli. This vision balances lightness and volume—garments that highlight the body without limiting it.
This show is not mere aesthetic exercise, but a practical proposal for women: “The collection must be wearable… It cannot be self-referential; it must feel real. Someone seeing it should say, ‘I want it.’”
In the background, Italian craftsmanship and sartorial care emerge in every detail: invisible seams, overlapping cut petals, and knitted rose-like interweaves. These technical skills pair with accessories like bags, leather sandals, and raffia clutches.
Luisa Spagnoli reiterates the “naturally chic” philosophy—not just an aesthetic but a lifestyle.
Laura Biagiotti: Futurist Art and the Flight of the “Futurfarfalla”
Lavinia Biagiotti Cigna brings to the runway a collection intertwining fashion and culture. Titled The Art of Fashion, it is inspired by Giacomo Balla’s “Futurfarfalla,” a symbol of lightness and transformation. The SS26 line fuses garments, knitwear, and accessories in a dialogue with visual and literary arts, even evoking Italo Calvino’s Barone Rampante.
“There’s always room for a new garment that provides a fresh perspective,” says Lavinia Biagiotti Cigna. “What I aim to suggest—to myself first, then to women who embrace our designs—is dressing time with courage, passion, and responsibility.” It’s an invitation to see fashion as transformation, pairing reality and imagination.
This season the maison celebrates 60 years since its foundation—an anniversary that reinforces roots even as it looks toward the future. The path through what Laura Biagiotti called the “forest of dresses,” narrating the brand’s history, is mirrored in the SS26 creations, updating the maison’s heritage in a modern key.
The link with art is explicit and bold. The show’s effect was amplified by staging at Teatro Piccolo Teatro Grassi and featuring top model Pat Cleveland, embodying timeless elegance.
Accessories carry the same vision in pop key: metallic bags, colored sabot shoes, and futuristic sunglasses complete a wardrobe that marries imagination and everyday life. This collection is as much dream as reality—a metamorphosis in continuity.
Star-Studded Front Rows
Ferragamo’s front row included Naomi Watts, Christy Turlington, Laetitia Casta, Bianca Balti, and ballet star Nicoletta Manni. At Ermanno Scervino, names such as Olivia Palermo, Natalia Vodianova, Paola Iezzi, Michele Morrone, and Chiara Ferragni stood out.
