SS26 in Milan: A Turning Point for Fashion
Milan Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2026 collections delivered a fresh wave of creativity and meaningful moments. This edition stood out not just for the clothes, but for the statements behind them — emotional tributes, powerful debuts, playful irony, and reimagined luxury.
Iconic Debuts and Creative Turns
One of the most anticipated moments was Gucci’s new chapter under creative director Demna. Rather than a conventional runway, Gucci revealed 38 character-driven looks through a cinematic presentation that reinterpreted the brand’s signature motifs — from the double G monogram to horse-bit hardware and the Flora print — infused with Demna’s streetwear sensibility.
At Versace, the debut collection by Dario Vitale made bold waves. His vision embraced daring sensuality — backless tanks, tailored suits with provocative accents, and unapologetic glamour. It was a statement that the brand is shifting into a different, modern territory.
Glamour, Gold & Golden Eras
Roberto Cavalli drew inspiration from icons like Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Birkin. Flowing gold gowns, lamé-infused denim, and dramatic silhouettes evoked a sense of regal intensity mingled with effortlessness.
Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana explored a “wrinkled romance” aesthetic. Their menswear show juxtaposed casual pajama-style ensembles with structured tailoring and playful contrasts, blurring the line between formal and relaxed.
Irony & Social Voice on the Runway
In a standout show, Moschino leaned into irony and social commentary. Everyday materials were transformed into high fashion — crinoline bands became skirts, rubber bands turned into ombré dresses, and handbags mimicked mundane objects. In a poignant closing, the creative director wore a tee bearing a child’s face and the word “Stop,” spotlighting the plight of children in conflict zones.
Beauty Speaks Boldly
Beauty on the Milan runways made its own statements. The classic winged eyeliner made a bold return in a precise form. Slick, gelled hairstyles reappeared in many collections. Voluminous, teased hair, reminiscent of Madame de Pompadour, appeared at shows like Max Mara and Armani. Some makeup looks centered on singular dramatic focal points (like pearl tear accents or gold lashes), while windswept, undone waves gave softer finishes in other shows.
Closing with Emotion: Armani’s Farewell
The week concluded with Giorgio Armani’s emotionally resonant final show. Held in the Pinacoteca di Brera — in the neighborhood where the designer lived — the presentation honored his influence and legacy. Models wore fluid tailoring, sea-toned gowns, and refined two-pieces; guests dressed in black tie, some wearing T-shirts bearing his image. The tribute capped off Milan Fashion Week with both elegance and sentiment.
