Paul Smith leaned into memory, humor and heritage for his Fall 2026 menswear show, openly embracing the idea that the past can be a powerful creative engine — especially when it’s your own.
“You know, every designer in the world normally looks at old references,” Paul Smith explained backstage before his fall show. “But, of course, I forgot that I have 5,000 of my own old references, because I’m extremely old.”
At 79, Smith remains trim enough to wear suits he bought two decades ago and as playful as ever. He spoke with visible delight about the “nice young helpers” on his refreshed design team, noting their enthusiasm for the brand’s archive. Together, they revisited standout pieces — largely from the 1980s — giving them renewed relevance within today’s fashion cycle.
Flipping through a printed run-of-show covered in handwritten notes, Smith had marked nearly half of the looks as “archive,” with several references reaching as far back as 1977. The collaboration between generations has clearly energized him.
“Their fresh eyes give me energy and help me see things in a new light,” Smith said in a voiceover during the intimate salon presentation. Guests were seated on tightly packed wooden benches printed with whimsical imagery — forgotten eyeglasses, spilled coins and scattered scissors — a cheeky nod to the designer’s enduring sense of humor.
The collection emerged as one of Smith’s strongest in recent seasons. It was defined by slouchy, generously proportioned tailoring, muddy autumnal tones, and richly textured Donegal tweeds and herringbones. Standout throwback pieces included loose, sweater-weight Henley tops that immediately sparked desire.
Outerwear played a key role, with lightweight macs featuring softly caped backs, alongside utility shirts and anoraks styled into full-legged trousers. The silhouettes felt relaxed yet purposeful, balancing practicality with elegance.
Classic menswear codes anchored the lineup: navy suits, crisp white shirts, leather car coats and Fair Isle sweaters reaffirmed the enduring appeal of timeless design. In Smith’s hands, these familiar ideas felt freshly relevant once again.
Fall 2026 proved that revisiting one’s own history — with humor, confidence and curiosity — can be a compelling way forward.
