Frills, corsets, and bold silhouettes dominated Spring-Summer 2026 runways in Paris and Milan. Yet one thing was missing: women in charge.
Amid a massive reshuffle across Europe’s luxury scene, around ten major brands introduced new artistic directors — nearly all of them men.
One Woman Takes the Spotlight
In Milan, powerhouses like Gucci, Versace, and Bottega Veneta presented newly appointed designers. But only Louise Trotter of Bottega Veneta represented women at the helm.
Her presence contrasted sharply with male successors at Chanel and Dior, replacing female leaders.
“Before Covid, there seemed to be more openings for women,” said Karen Van Godtsenhoven, curator of Women Dressing Women at the Met. “But post-pandemic, the industry reverted to conservative norms — returning to the male solo designer.”
Old Power, Same Patterns
According to Dana Thomas, author of Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster, the industry remains controlled by “conservative elderly men” leading LVMH, Kering, and Chanel.
“Chanel missed a huge chance by not hiring a woman to lead a house founded by one,” she told AFP, referring to Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel.
Even labels created by women — Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Schiaparelli, Celine — are now headed by men. Only Sarah Burton (Givenchy) and Maria Grazia Chiuri (Fendi) break the pattern.
Hermès, long led by women in its creative divisions, recently saw Veronique Nichanian step down after 37 years — another loss for female leadership.
The “Male Genius” Myth
“There’s a glass ceiling across industries, and luxury fashion is no exception,” said Frédéric Godart of INSEAD. “Work culture, pay gaps, and old hierarchies keep men on top.”
He called the absence of women “glaring,” especially in an industry that prides itself on diversity. The myth of the “male genius designer,” he added, still shapes decisions.
Van Godtsenhoven agreed: women remain confined to craftsmanship, while men are hailed as visionaries. “It’s a damaging cliché,” she said.
New Generation, Old Barriers
Fashion schools continue producing mostly female graduates. And women now lead Chanel, Gucci, and Dior at the executive level.
Kering reports that women hold 58% of management roles and half of its board — yet top creative posts remain elusive.
Many designers, including Iris van Herpen, Molly Goddard, and Simone Rocha, are carving independent paths.
“There’s a whole generation of incredible women,” said Thomas. “They’re just not getting the breaks.”
