Dario Vitale will depart Versace on December 12, a move described as a “mutual decision” under the brand’s new ownership, Prada Group. The announcement arrived only two days after the acquisition officially closed, confirming long-circulating speculation about Vitale’s future.
Until a new creative direction is announced, Versace’s design team will operate under the guidance of CEO Emmanuel Gintzburger.
Why Vitale Was Not Part of Prada’s Long-Term Plan
Vitale’s appointment came under former parent company Capri Holdings, not Prada Group. Despite positive industry reaction to his debut runway show, it was clear he wasn’t the preferred choice of the Prada-Bertelli family, who maintained their original vision once the takeover was complete.
Vitale previously worked as design director at Miu Miu alongside Miuccia Prada, a collaboration that powered the brand’s recent momentum. His departure from Miu Miu in late 2024 was already considered disruptive, given the brand was navigating the transition following the exit of longtime deputy Fabio Zambernardi.
For Prada’s leadership, questions persisted about whether Vitale was ready to step out of a behind-the-scenes design role and assume the spotlight of a major creative directorship. Executives, including CEO Andrea Guerra, repeatedly avoided confirming any intention to reunite with him at Versace.
Aesthetic Alignment and Strategic Fit
Lorenzo Bertelli — the driving force behind the Versace acquisition and expected future executive chairman — has emphasised that the brand appeals to a distinct customer base compared to Prada and Miu Miu. Vitale’s debut, defined by layered styling and a subversive take on sensuality, may have overlapped too closely with Miu Miu’s territory.
Sources indicate Prada Group made the decision not to retain Vitale months ago, giving the company time to quietly evaluate potential successors.
What Prada Wants for Versace
Prada is likely searching for a seasoned creative director capable of repositioning Versace without repeating past missteps. The group struggled with previous acquisitions in the early 2000s, notably Helmut Lang and Jil Sander, and is reluctant to risk another turbulent integration.
The next creative leader may steer the brand toward a clearer expression of glamour and sex appeal — one that avoids aesthetic conflict with Prada’s intellectual minimalism or Miu Miu’s youthful eccentricity.
Donatella Versace’s Role Going Forward
A major open question concerns Donatella Versace and whether her role as chief brand ambassador might evolve. It appears unlikely that Prada Group will reinstall her as sole creative lead, undoing the succession already in place. Yet the dual creative director model — successful at Prada with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons — may offer a blueprint for a new configuration at Versace.
For now, the industry waits to see how Prada will redefine one of fashion’s most iconic houses.
