Paul Costelloe, the Irish American fashion designer best known for dressing Princess Diana and shaping the London fashion scene for generations, has died at the age of 80. His company announced that he passed peacefully in London, surrounded by his wife and seven children, after a brief illness.
Costelloe became a beloved name in British fashion with a career built on luxurious materials, elegant silhouettes and a strong artistic identity. His work combined meticulous craftsmanship with a distinctly European sensibility, influenced by years spent studying and working across major fashion capitals.
From Dublin Tailor’s Son to Paris Fashion Student
Born in Dublin in 1945, Costelloe grew up in a family connected to craft. His father worked as a tailor at a raincoat factory in the Rathmines district. Costelloe later studied at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris. He often said that his real education came not only from the classroom but from witnessing the work of designers like Emanuel Ungaro and Pierre Cardin, who shaped the creative atmosphere of the era.
An International Career with Global Influences
Costelloe began his professional journey as an assistant to designer Jacques Esterel before moving to Milan. There, he worked for the British retailer Marks & Spencer during its attempt to enter the Italian market, later joining the luxury department store La Rinascente.
He eventually relocated to the United States, where he designed for the Anne Fogarty label. These international experiences broadened his technical skills and informed the refined yet approachable style he would later become known for.
Building His Own Fashion House
After returning to Europe, Costelloe founded his own fashion house, which grew into a brand offering womenswear, menswear, bags and accessories. He worked from central London while partnering with a family run manufacturing site in the Ancona region of Italy, blending British creativity with Italian craftsmanship.
A Defining Partnership with Princess Diana
Costelloe’s career changed dramatically in 1983 when he was appointed personal designer to Princess Diana. The connection began when one of her ladies in waiting saw his work and arranged a meeting.
Costelloe later recalled looking out over Hyde Park during their first encounter and thinking: “This is it, Paul. You have made it.” His association with Diana continued until her death in 1997, firmly establishing him as a trusted and influential figure in British luxury fashion.
