New York Fashion Week opened on Wednesday with a restrained and elegant Ralph Lauren show. It was a packed evening, with Miu Miu featuring Coco Gauff nearby and Dior unveiling a new flagship store. Ralph also hosted a post-show dinner at his Polo Bar on Fifth Avenue, while the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) held a cocktail in honor of the season’s launch at the Rainbow Room in Rockefeller Center.
Valentino capped off the busy day by inviting fans to the legendary Studio 54 to launch a new cosmetics line, while Paper magazine drew young crowds to a party in NoHo.
A Relaxed Scene Amid Midtown Madness
While Midtown Manhattan was buzzing with events, the atmosphere at Ralph Lauren remained relaxed and carefree. The show took place at his headquarters on the ninth floor of 650 Madison, a late-1950s skyscraper. The set was a triple-modernist statement: all in white with a curved staircase in the style of Robert Mallet-Stevens, white chairs, and black woven chandeliers.
Collection Highlights: Refined Elegance
The collection’s leitmotif was understated elegance, blending crisp cat-eye silhouettes with sensual volumes. It embodied Haute Hamptons chic, with superb white frock coats paired with black bikini tops and loose trousers.
"Now is the time to keep things simple and let the clothes tell the story. There is a personal spirit in this collection that I want to share in the intimate setting of the place where it all began," Ralph commented.
Striking Details and Color Accents
Some smart designs included touches of sinful red—bustier dresses, pantsuits with wide-leg trousers, or trench coats over men’s pants paired with wedge espadrilles. Various cardigans, blouses, and striped dresses were often topped with oversized straw hats reminiscent of Provence and Montauk.
The collection was further enhanced by a remix of the classic Bee Gees song More Than a Woman. The lyrics, “Because of you I work day and night, just trying to hold on to you,” captured the light beauty of the models and the clothing.
Front Row Glamour: Oprah Shines
Oprah Winfrey, seated in the front row, radiated throughout the show.
"I loved the dramatic black-and-white dresses and the flowing red coats and skirts because I think red is worn when you know you’ve won!" the longtime fan exclaimed. When asked why she felt such a connection with Ralph, Oprah replied: "I think because we both worked, earned our way, did everything on our own, and did it for ourselves. No one gave us anything, and here we are," she smiled, wearing a ruffled neckline under a white men’s-style cotton shirt.
Finale and Celebration
At the finale, a smiling Ralph, appearing fragile yet determined, bowed to the audience at the bottom of the staircase. Before his wife, Ricky, embraced him warmly, the crowd gave a prolonged standing ovation.
Technically, the six-day NYFW starts on Thursday, but Ralph’s show felt like the official season opener. The heavyweight champion of American fashion made a light and effortless statement, offering a welcome contrast to the current political climate.
From Intimate Spaces to City Skyline
Designers, buyers, and editors gathered on the 65th floor of Rockefeller Center, moving from an intimate environment to a vast cityscape, sipping espresso martinis from Starbucks at the CFDA reception. Referring to the iconic Prometheus statue, CFDA CEO Steven Kolb connected Greek mythology to fashion, noting they both involve creativity and bold action.
This season, CFDA will once again livestream all shows on three giant screens to reach a wider audience, Kolb said. He was later joined by Anna Sui, Anna Wintour, Michael Kors, and CFDA chairman Tom Brown for a group photo.
