As the latest Paris and Milan Fashion Weeks wrapped up, an old reality re-emerged behind the glitz: men continue to dominate leadership in women’s fashion. Among roughly ten new artistic directors debuting their collections this season, only one was female — Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta. At both Chanel and Dior, women were replaced by male successors.
A Return to the “Old Certainties”
According to Karen Van Godtsenhoven, fashion scholar at the University of Ghent and guest curator of Women Dressing Women at New York’s Met Museum, this male resurgence is a reaction to post-pandemic instability.
Luxury brands initially boomed after Covid but later struggled with inflated prices and declining demand. “They’re going back to the old certainties of the male solo designer,” she explained — a formula many houses believe feels “safe” to investors.
The Irony of Chanel and Its Legacy
This shift feels particularly bitter for houses like Chanel, founded by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, the most influential woman in fashion history. Yet Chanel, Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Schiaparelli, and Celine — all born from women’s creativity — are now helmed by men.
Fashion journalist Dana Thomas called the trend “a painful regression,” noting how female voices once shaped these houses into symbols of empowerment.
The Industry’s Diversity Paradox
Even with recent high-profile appointments — Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi — the broader imbalance remains.
Frédéric Godart, professor at INSEAD and author of Unveiling Fashion, said the lack of women in top roles is “quite glaring” for an industry that “claims to care about diversity.”
The Genius Myth
Both experts point to an enduring myth: men as visionaries, women as executors. Van Godtsenhoven observed that women make up the majority of the fashion workforce — from design studios to production floors — yet rarely hold creative authority. “It’s a cliché that damages both men and women,” she emphasized.
Women Forge Their Own Paths
Locked out of heritage brands, a new generation of women designers is building independent success. Iris van Herpen, Molly Goddard, and Simone Rocha are proving that innovation thrives beyond traditional power structures. “There’s a whole generation of women who are really, really good — they’re just not getting the breaks,” Thomas concluded.
