Four days before her Lagos Fashion Week debut, sewing machines buzzed in Abasiekeme Ukanireh’s workshop. The 35-year-old founder of Nigerian label Eki Kere was finalising preparations for one of Africa’s most anticipated fashion events — one focused this year on sustainability, craftsmanship, and culture.
Sustainability Takes Centre Stage
“Each year, I try to make my brand more sustainable,” said Ukanireh, known for her signature raffia, a palm-derived fibre used in everything from baskets to handbags. For 2025, she introduced indigo and kola-nut dyes, while remaining true to her natural materials. Her runway featured designs inspired by traditional weddings in Ikot Ekpene, her hometown known as “Raffia City.” Instead of lace, she used cardboard, linen, and raffia — all biodegradable and compostable.
Training the Next Generation
Founded by Omoyeni Akerele, Lagos Fashion Week fosters innovation through Green Access, a mentorship program for young African designers. “Sustainability begins with materials,” said Akerele. “We help them rethink every step of the creative process.” The event also hosted Swapshop sessions, where attendees exchanged clothes instead of buying new ones. “We all have things we don’t wear anymore,” said Danielle Chukwuma. “It’s great to swap them with stylish people.”
Designers Challenge Overconsumption
Among standout talents was Ria Ana Sejpa, the Indian-Kenyan founder of LilaBare, who designs with pineapple fibre, banana fibre, and coffee grounds. “Fashion here is fearless,” she said. “It’s part of the culture.” Nigerian designer Florentina Hertunba of Hertunba shares this ethos, using aso oke and akwete fabrics with recycled threads and biodegradable packaging. “Sustainability only works if consumers take part,” she noted. “The real threat is overconsumption.”
