Jonathan Anderson has unveiled his second menswear collection for Dior, presenting a Fall/Winter 2026 show in Paris that rethinks the idea of the modern flâneur through what he describes as “aristo-youth.” The collection merges the architectural tailoring codes of the House with a fluid, globally inflected sense of opulence inspired by legendary couturier Paul Poiret.
Conceived as a narrative rather than a static presentation, the show imagines young aristocratic wanderers drifting through Paris. Their journey leads them to a commemorative plaque on Avenue Montaigne dedicated to Poiret, whose early-20th-century work liberated the body from rigid structure. This symbolic encounter becomes the catalyst for the season, blending Dior’s formal heritage with Poiret’s indulgent, avant-garde spirit.
Silhouettes throughout the collection deliberately blur gender and formal expectations. Lean, shrunken Bar jackets and elongated tailcoats are styled with unexpected elements such as long johns worn as trousers and formal lavallière shirts, creating a tension between vulnerability and regality. The idea of “dress and undress” runs through the looks, turning classic tailoring into something more intimate and playful.
The material story is somber yet richly tactile. Technical outerwear is transformed into something theatrical through brocade capes, while Donegal tweeds appear alongside glistening embroidery. Cropped blazers and sharply slim tailoring collide with denim and parkas, reinforcing Anderson’s interest in placing aristocratic codes against the grit of everyday streetwear.
The atmosphere of the show was shaped by the music of Mk.gee, whose introspective sound underscored the emotional tone of the collection. Models appeared in bright yellow wigs and spiked hairstyles, visually suggesting figures caught between inherited tradition and distorted future possibilities. Anderson spoke directly about this influence, noting: “He was not what I expected… there was a shyness to him that I found introverted. And I think the way in which I work, it’s collecting experiences or things through the process and then infiltrating it.”
That introverted energy translated into cocooning shapes, including balloon-back jackets and technical bombers that unfolded into sweeping, cape-like forms. Rather than relying on obvious markers of wealth, the collection focused on personal eccentricity and instinctive styling. As Anderson explained, “For me, this is like another character study. It’s about personal style, and at the same time, the idea of ignoring the aspect of money in terms of aristocracy—what is the eccentric-ness?”
Through its mix of historical reference, experimental proportion and richly worked fabrics, Dior Fall/Winter 2026 presents dressing as spontaneous association, where individuality matters more than status.
