At Paris Fashion Week, Chemena Kamali expressed Chloé’s essence through a garden of printed flowers — a focused, graceful vision of femininity that felt fresh yet familiar.
Now in her third chapter at Chloé, Kamali understands the house intimately. German-born, like Karl Lagerfeld, she previously worked under Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller before becoming creative director in 2024.
Founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, Chloé pioneered Parisian ready-to-wear — clothes made by women, for women, designed for freedom and lightness. Kamali’s revival of this spirit celebrates what Aghion called “intuitive dressing,” bringing together decades of Chloé heritage — the 1970s romance of Lagerfeld, the playfulness of Stella McCartney, and the effortless cool of the 2000s “Chloé girl.”
Prints and Pastels Take Center Stage
The floral prints weren’t merely decorative; they set the rhythm of the show. Silhouettes widened into trapeze lines in pearlized yellow, while layered coats and knotted skirts shimmered softly under the lights. The effect was quietly confident — color in motion, structure serene.
One pastel ensemble stood out: ruched, draped, and pleated, with ’80s-inspired shoulders and a dropped waist that created a fluid, elongated silhouette.
The dropped hemline reappeared in a gray coatdress — sharp yet gentle. Another standout, a tan coat-skirt hybrid, blurred the line between outerwear and dress, cinched gracefully at the waist. Throughout, frills and belts wove in like Chloé’s recurring melody.
Tradition Reimagined
Kamali’s references felt deliberate rather than nostalgic. Elements of Lagerfeld’s 1970s fluidity, the 2000s ease, and subtle ’80s structure blended harmoniously — past influences serving the present moment.
Still, the designer kept a keen balance. As coats gained weight and shoulders strengthened, the house’s airy femininity risked fading — yet Kamali’s hand maintained control, using those heavier notes to underscore clarity rather than overwhelm it.
Romance with Discipline
The final impression was one of measured romance — a collection that spoke of past and present in harmony. Chloé, under Kamali’s guidance, is finding its rhythm again: poetic yet practical, sensual yet grounded.
Paris left with a clear message — Chloé’s beauty lies not in excess but in emotion, rhythm, and refinement.
